Sunday, February 10, 2013

How to get your bridal and wedding make up to last (Step 3 - Choosing the right Make-Up (A Concealing))

How to get your bridal and wedding make up to last (Step 3 - Choosing the right Make-Up (A Concealing))

Congratulations!  You're getting married or you are in a friends wedding!  Either way, it is going to be a lot of fun, a lot of work, some stress, and very rewarding.  The day of the special event you want to look as good when the reception is winding down (no easy task after a glass of wine or five) as you did when the procession music started playing.  I am more than happy to share some tips with you to make your make-up stay all day and all night!  We have previously prepped the skin by exfoliating, and now it is the day of our big event.  After priming we need to apply concealers, foundations, and other cosmetics that should last the entire day (and ones you will feel comfortable wearing all day), and set your make-up; Moreover, I'll share some tips from not accidentally damaging your face during the event to how to remove all of it in the end.

Just about all of us have something to hide.  No, I'm not talking about all of those "skeletons in the closet", but rather a less than perfect complexion.  Few of us are thrilled with our chosen mediums and products used to conceal them.  What's worse, concealing less than desirable features often brings more attention to them.  You may not be able to see what you've covered,  but now it's overwhelmingly obvious to everyone you have something to hide.  Even worse, most concealers and foundations don't manage to last all day.  In fact, it seems like they begin to fade the moment you finish putting them on.  Not to worry, I'm going to share my secrets with you.  You'll be fully concealed, comfortable, no one will know, whether they are close up or far away and the results should require little to no touching up!

The day of your big event is going to require some concealing that is photography friendly as well.  The last thing we want is an over the counter foundation or concealer reflecting the light  from a flash back into the camera causing a white glow in your pictures or those of your guests.  Many of your expensive department store brands do the same thing.  Oh, boy!  This sounds complicated.  Not to worry!  You're local blogging professional make-up artist has worked with most of the brands and have experience at least with all of the "designed for photographs and film work" brands.
First big question!  When to conceal?  No one can seem to get this question answered to their satisfaction and every "professional" you ask seems to have a different answer.  This question is answered in two parts. 

    First, concealing and other complexion steps should be completed after the eyes are done, excluding mascara.  What?  Since when?  Do you know what you are talking about?  Yes!  It took me a long time to teach myself this especially after doing makeup for the theater.  But eventually doing television work and runway, I learned this is a HUGE time saver!  Why?  Well, if your eye shadows fall off your applicator and onto you face, you have not given them a moist environment to get stuck in.   They can be easily wiped away off of bare, primed skin.  Also, if you're doing a smokey eye or any other type of eye where blending is paramount (and isn't it always?) then you can quickly and easily frame your eye with your concealer and foundation for that extra professional look.
   Second, pre-conceal?  Post conceal?  Or both?  Ha!  I can answer this one too.  If you're using a corrector or a concealer that doesn't match your skin tone then my suggestion is to pre-conceal.  You're foundation should (hopefully) be able to color correct the concealer so you're not an odd color; However, concealers are so technologically advanced  now you should not need to use a separate correcter.  Even if you are covering a tattoo.  The most serious of imperfections may require pre-concealing and post concealing, but this is only in the most extreme of conditions and remember this may not look as natural close up.  Do not worry!  I am here to help!  I'm going to help you find as little or as much coverage as you need.

Ok, please note -  The following section will discuss the amount of coverage different concealers will provide A light coverage concealer should provide as much coverage as a medium to full coverage foundation would provide where as a full coverage concealer is more like a tattoo cover product.
We're going to need all-day-wearing, photographically-friendly concealers and there are more than you think.  If you like a light-weight liquid concealer with light coverage consider Smashbox's High Definition concealer. It lays very naturally on the skin and the high definition ingredients won't make lines or rough textured skin look more obvious.  There are six shades so finding a skin true match should not be as hard here as with some other brands.  If you prefer your concealer in a stick consider Nars' Concealer. This is also light-weight, long wearing, light coverage.  This concealer comes in 9 shades so a skin true match should not be hard to achieve.  I also like to use this perfectly wedged stick to frame in eyebrows and to use as a nude matte highlighter for the brow bone (there are times when we may not necessarily desire shimmer (although, being fairly certain I was a crow in a former life, I can't image when those times are)). 

For a medium coverage liquid try Make Up ForEver's HD Concealer.  It comes in a pen and there are 9 shades so you can get a closer match to your skin tone.  You'll probably still want to tap/blend with a concealer brush.  One of my favorites is by Paula Dorf.  It's a great quality brush and it's just the right size.  Sort of like a mini foundation brush.  Also, for a medium coverage please look at Cargo's Blu_Ray concealer.
It's fantastic.  It comes in a pen with a foam tip that makes application a dream  It's very light-weight, it actually smooths lines and wrinkles thanks to an ingredient they call Visilox an instant smoothing Botox nuero peptide.  The down side to this is that there are only two shades.  They are both very skin true colors but anyone any darker than an intensity 3.5 is not going to be able to satisfactorily match their skin-tone.

Medium to full coverage Hourglass has a fantastic concealer in a stick.  Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer It's much lighter-weight than the coverage would imply.  It stays put and wont' move into lines or pores, wears all day, and the six shades are all very true to skin colors.  It's loaded with vitamin E so it's actually not too bad for your skin.  I love to apply this with Sephora's Pro Airbrush Concealer Brush #57!  This is so beautiful.  It quite literally looks like you have been airbrushed.
     If it's serious concealing you need check out Amazing Concealer by Amazing Cosmetics.  This link also has a video that helps explain how to use the Amazing Concealer.  It's actually pretty easy to work with (not using too much will be your biggest challenge)  I carry all ten shades of this product with me to every photo shoot.  I never want to be without them, and I wish I had them in college to smear on my windows to keep the sun from penetrating my room.  This concealer really is Amazing!  It's very, very light weight, it can be waterproofed, it's long wearing, the colors are great and they will cover anything.  Trust me i have even covered tattoos with this.  Setting it correctly also makes it smudge proof and transfer resistant.  If all you are concealing is your under eye area you never need to squeeze the tube what's in the lid is the perfect amount.  I recommend their concealer brush for this as it is inexpensive and fits perfectly into the lid.  This is not completely oil free; However, the grade of the oil that is use in this is so refined you should not experience congestive problems with this product even when used every day. If you are using this on the body to it is essential to follow the directions EXACTLY, and if you are wearing a light color near or over this product allow additional drying time and I would still cover the fabric with tissues and paper towels.  I do this with tattoo covers and theater make up too.
     If you choose to go with old world tattoo and birth mark covers please consider Cover Blend by Exuviance over the other similar brands.  Exuviance comes from a pharmaceutical background and formulates their more skin healthy than others.  They have great colors and the coverage is unbeatable; However, these products are not easy to work with and do not feel comfortable on the skin.  Get their specific setting mediums and follow their instructions if you are covering a tattoo to set them and keep them from transferring.  I also recommend using them before foundations on the face as they may not necessarily be formulated for photographic purposes.  Please, do no expect to look 'natural' up-close when using any of these products.
    I have not worked with Kat Von D's products but I know some make up artists that rave about her tatoo cover.  Then, I read reviews that aren't as stellar.  You may want to give it a look as well if nothing else has met your  specific needs.
   Also, you may give theater make-ups a look.  I prefer Ben Nye simply because I have worked with it.  I'm certain there are other great products but I know that Ben Nye works.  You'll almost certainly have to buy this product online and you'll still want to prep, prime, apply and set. Do not worry about matching your color so closely.  You will become whatever color you apply.  You will have to request a catalog.  You can purchase these products directly from online retailers too.

And there you have it!  All of your dirty little secrets should be well covered and the cat is securely in the Chanel bag and Paris Hilton will not be letting the kitty out.    No matter how little or how much you have to hide you should be able to find an option that will thrill you and look great in your photographs (you're wedding legacy).

I would love to hear what you think.  Please, participate in the conversation.

Next up, how to get your foundations to look beautiful and last all day.

Chet Michael
Professional Make-Up Artistry in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and Charleston, West Virginia
412 531-2083

Monday, February 4, 2013

Oz the Great and Powerful - 2 new palettes by Urban Decay for Spring 2013

Happy Superbowl Sunday!   I can not wait to watch the big showdown between the San Fransisco 49'ers and the Baltimore Ravens.  As a Pittsburgh Steelers fan, I am rooting for the San Francisco 49'ers!  If you are not a huge football fab and the Puppybowl is more your style ( I have to admit I am caught between two worlds on this one ), then, you may want to take a look at the two new Palettes by Urban Decay.  Look fast though, they are limited-edition and I expect they will sell quickly.

If you have not been on Facebook, checked what's trending on Twitter,  or randomly searching on Google, then you may not be aware that Disney is about to release "Oz The Great and Powerful" starring Mila Kunis as Theodora and Michelle Williams as Glinda along with a lot of other Hollywood fan favorites.  Mila and Michelle look AMAZING!  And Urban Decay is on all the glamour and fun by releasing two character and movie inspired spring color pallettes!  Just as Disney wants us to guess "which witch is which?" Urban Decay is forcing us to ask "Which witch palette is with us going home today?".  Answer?  Both! OMG!  Both! 

These palettes are GORGEOUS and versatile!  All the eyeshadow colors are "all new", though some may be vaguely reminiscent of previous or existing colors.  Both come with 4 full-size eye-shadows, 2 full size eyeshadow duos, a mini size 24/7 eyeliner, and a full sized Super Saturated High-Gloss Lip Color, and a hard-metal customizable carry-all/compact (all shades pop out and can be interchanged with any other full-sized Urban Decay eyeshadow (since the reformulation)).  Making what you take with you a truly custom experience.  Both palettes are completely wearable, fashion-forward, high-quality, and easy to work with.   Let us talk about the colors-- Glinda and Theodora.

    Glinda is spring reincarnate.  Fresh, clean, bright, light, colorful, multi-textured, and seemingly sweet and innocent.  At first glance you eye is immediately drawn to the shimmery colors and the blue undertones in this collection.  You may be tempted to think of Katy Perry, Brittany Spears, Niki Minaj or some other colorful pop princesses when you look at this color combo.  While this palette can certainly achieve an over the top, fashion-forward very bright and colorful look only meant for the daring or famous, it can also be used to achieve a very sophisticated or natural look. Remember, it's all how you work with your colors.  Aura is a duo pan with two gorgeous colors that every girl will want in their wardrobe.  One is a white with a blue iridescent while the other is a white with a pink iridescent pearl finish.  Aura will highlight and brighten any eye no matter how deep set or naturally shaded.  Either or both color will reflect light and make eyes look whiter and more awake.  Do not be afraid of these colors and I just don't see how either one could be over used on fair to medium skins.  Dark tan to Deep skins will want to use more of these colors (using them sparingly may make the eye lid skin look ashy).  If you are darker skinned make sure you use this duo generously; Thereby, making the look intentional (on your skin it will be a beautiful iridescent highlighter).  You will love this duo and be praying that Urban adds these two colors to their permanent color collection.  Fans of the AC/DC color from before the eyeshadow reformulation (the newer AC/DC isn't the same as it was before) will LOVE Tornado.  This dark purple shimmer is almost exactly the same color.  Tornado can be used to smoke up the eye or add contouring drama or used to beautifully and sophisticatedly  line the eyes.  Natural and nude eye girls can still use this color.  If you like shimmer and glitter you'll love the duo pan, Oz.   One side is gold shimmer with gold glitter and the other is silver shimmer with silver glitter.  It's beautiful and dramatic.  Magic, is a beautiful lavender subtled by a golden shimmer.  So delicate and pretty, it's perfect for spring.  Everyone will love the color South.  South is a warm gray with a very fine golden shimmer/glitter.  Brightening and neutral it's fun and yet conservative, perfect for just about any look.
     You'll get a mini 24/7 eye liner pencil with this palette in a very dark charcoal/plum purple, called Rockstar.  This is one of my all-time favorite eye liner colors.  Rockstar is  a great spring color. It can be used by even your nude/natural ladies to emphasize literally any color eye.  You'll see the charcoal but the plum will brighten your natural eye color like you will not believe!  You have to try this color. You'll also get a Super Saturated High-Gloss lip color pencil in a beautiful warm light pinky-beige.  The color and formula are both very nice... You'll love this.

     Theodora is gorgeous too!  At first glance she won't appear as eye catching and the girls that like the more nude natural eyes are going to be more attracted to this palette.  Do not be fooled by this palette though.  You glitz and glamor girls are going to get a lot of use out of this one too.  The colors are mostly brown with hints of a more olive green and a tiny splash of black.  You'll get more matte colors in this palette, and yet you'll still be able to add shimmer and glitter when you like.  Your duo pan colors are so much fun.  Jealous has a bit of shine without really being glittery nor shimmery.  You will just have to see this one.  One side is a light almost pistachio green, while the other is more of medium tone olive, leaning emerald.  These will look soft and nearly neutral on the eye and will be great for emphasizing brown and blue eyes.  Spell has a dark smoky black with a beautiful greenish-gold shimmer to it and also a golden glittery shadow.  Smoke up your eyes, make them shine, or both!  And when blended down these shadows still look beautiful on ladies that prefer a more natural look.   Bewitch is great for a more matte smokey look.  It is an expressive dark neutral brown with more of a satin finish.  West is very similar but has a more metallic finish to it.  Broken is beautiful all over shade in a light neutral/cream with a satin finish (this is great for blending your more smokey colors).  Finally, Beware is a warm medium chestnut brown with a matte finish.  You will also get a 24/7 eyeliner pencil in zero.  A dark black chameleon shade.  Lay this pencil down first and lightly press eyeshadow colors into Zero ,Voila!  Zero becomes whatever color you lay over top of it!  Or, wear Zero by itself, this black color doesn't smudge, run, or fade easily.
    You'll also get a Super Saturated High Gloss Lip Color Pencil in a soft Red.  Ladies, do not let this color sway you in your decision to select this palette.  This color is soft, and yet "Oh! So glamorous".  If you have every wanted to wear a red lip but have been afraid to try, this might be the shade for you.  Just a note, if you've been wearing nude lips for a while, there is no red or reddish color that won't blow your mind psychologically.  You're going to have to put it on, and wear it around for 2 hours before you can even begin to judge whether or not this is something you can handle.  This is a great starter red.  And hint?  If it's still too bright layer it over another more neutral color.  This color can be blotted and will give more a a lip stain effect.  The ladies that love a red lip will find this warm/neutral red to be a stunner.  Soft and yet dramatic at the same time.  Give this color a try.

These palettes get even more beautiful when the two of them are mixed.  Try a dramatic statement eye with the smokey colors from Theodora while blending them with the light, airy shimmery, or iridescent colors from Glinda and pop on Glinda's lip color.  Or do a light fresh shiny eye from Glinda and pop the lash line with Theodora's smokey shades adding Theodora's lip color.  This makes the combinations and fun of these two palettes exponentially fun!

Do not be afraid to play!

So, tomorrow, when the guys are talking about the nearly miraculous almost come-back of the San Fransisco 49'ers, how amazing Jennifer Hudson and Alicia Keys sounded or YouTube - ing the "not-so-shocking" reunion of Destiny's Child during Beyonce's Superbowl performance, you can be thinking about all of the ways you can put your spring looks together with Urban Decay's two "Oz the Great and Powerful" limited edition palettes.

Check them out!,default,pd.html

You can also see the movie trailers at

Let me know what you think!  I can't wait to hear!  

412 531-2083