Sunday, February 10, 2013

How to get your bridal and wedding make up to last (Step 3 - Choosing the right Make-Up (A Concealing))

How to get your bridal and wedding make up to last (Step 3 - Choosing the right Make-Up (A Concealing))

Congratulations!  You're getting married or you are in a friends wedding!  Either way, it is going to be a lot of fun, a lot of work, some stress, and very rewarding.  The day of the special event you want to look as good when the reception is winding down (no easy task after a glass of wine or five) as you did when the procession music started playing.  I am more than happy to share some tips with you to make your make-up stay all day and all night!  We have previously prepped the skin by exfoliating, and now it is the day of our big event.  After priming we need to apply concealers, foundations, and other cosmetics that should last the entire day (and ones you will feel comfortable wearing all day), and set your make-up; Moreover, I'll share some tips from not accidentally damaging your face during the event to how to remove all of it in the end.

Just about all of us have something to hide.  No, I'm not talking about all of those "skeletons in the closet", but rather a less than perfect complexion.  Few of us are thrilled with our chosen mediums and products used to conceal them.  What's worse, concealing less than desirable features often brings more attention to them.  You may not be able to see what you've covered,  but now it's overwhelmingly obvious to everyone you have something to hide.  Even worse, most concealers and foundations don't manage to last all day.  In fact, it seems like they begin to fade the moment you finish putting them on.  Not to worry, I'm going to share my secrets with you.  You'll be fully concealed, comfortable, no one will know, whether they are close up or far away and the results should require little to no touching up!

The day of your big event is going to require some concealing that is photography friendly as well.  The last thing we want is an over the counter foundation or concealer reflecting the light  from a flash back into the camera causing a white glow in your pictures or those of your guests.  Many of your expensive department store brands do the same thing.  Oh, boy!  This sounds complicated.  Not to worry!  You're local blogging professional make-up artist has worked with most of the brands and have experience at least with all of the "designed for photographs and film work" brands.
First big question!  When to conceal?  No one can seem to get this question answered to their satisfaction and every "professional" you ask seems to have a different answer.  This question is answered in two parts. 

    First, concealing and other complexion steps should be completed after the eyes are done, excluding mascara.  What?  Since when?  Do you know what you are talking about?  Yes!  It took me a long time to teach myself this especially after doing makeup for the theater.  But eventually doing television work and runway, I learned this is a HUGE time saver!  Why?  Well, if your eye shadows fall off your applicator and onto you face, you have not given them a moist environment to get stuck in.   They can be easily wiped away off of bare, primed skin.  Also, if you're doing a smokey eye or any other type of eye where blending is paramount (and isn't it always?) then you can quickly and easily frame your eye with your concealer and foundation for that extra professional look.
   Second, pre-conceal?  Post conceal?  Or both?  Ha!  I can answer this one too.  If you're using a corrector or a concealer that doesn't match your skin tone then my suggestion is to pre-conceal.  You're foundation should (hopefully) be able to color correct the concealer so you're not an odd color; However, concealers are so technologically advanced  now you should not need to use a separate correcter.  Even if you are covering a tattoo.  The most serious of imperfections may require pre-concealing and post concealing, but this is only in the most extreme of conditions and remember this may not look as natural close up.  Do not worry!  I am here to help!  I'm going to help you find as little or as much coverage as you need.

Ok, please note -  The following section will discuss the amount of coverage different concealers will provide A light coverage concealer should provide as much coverage as a medium to full coverage foundation would provide where as a full coverage concealer is more like a tattoo cover product.
We're going to need all-day-wearing, photographically-friendly concealers and there are more than you think.  If you like a light-weight liquid concealer with light coverage consider Smashbox's High Definition concealer. It lays very naturally on the skin and the high definition ingredients won't make lines or rough textured skin look more obvious.  There are six shades so finding a skin true match should not be as hard here as with some other brands.  If you prefer your concealer in a stick consider Nars' Concealer. This is also light-weight, long wearing, light coverage.  This concealer comes in 9 shades so a skin true match should not be hard to achieve.  I also like to use this perfectly wedged stick to frame in eyebrows and to use as a nude matte highlighter for the brow bone (there are times when we may not necessarily desire shimmer (although, being fairly certain I was a crow in a former life, I can't image when those times are)). 

For a medium coverage liquid try Make Up ForEver's HD Concealer.  It comes in a pen and there are 9 shades so you can get a closer match to your skin tone.  You'll probably still want to tap/blend with a concealer brush.  One of my favorites is by Paula Dorf.  It's a great quality brush and it's just the right size.  Sort of like a mini foundation brush.  Also, for a medium coverage please look at Cargo's Blu_Ray concealer.
It's fantastic.  It comes in a pen with a foam tip that makes application a dream  It's very light-weight, it actually smooths lines and wrinkles thanks to an ingredient they call Visilox an instant smoothing Botox nuero peptide.  The down side to this is that there are only two shades.  They are both very skin true colors but anyone any darker than an intensity 3.5 is not going to be able to satisfactorily match their skin-tone.

Medium to full coverage Hourglass has a fantastic concealer in a stick.  Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer It's much lighter-weight than the coverage would imply.  It stays put and wont' move into lines or pores, wears all day, and the six shades are all very true to skin colors.  It's loaded with vitamin E so it's actually not too bad for your skin.  I love to apply this with Sephora's Pro Airbrush Concealer Brush #57!  This is so beautiful.  It quite literally looks like you have been airbrushed.
     If it's serious concealing you need check out Amazing Concealer by Amazing Cosmetics.  This link also has a video that helps explain how to use the Amazing Concealer.  It's actually pretty easy to work with (not using too much will be your biggest challenge)  I carry all ten shades of this product with me to every photo shoot.  I never want to be without them, and I wish I had them in college to smear on my windows to keep the sun from penetrating my room.  This concealer really is Amazing!  It's very, very light weight, it can be waterproofed, it's long wearing, the colors are great and they will cover anything.  Trust me i have even covered tattoos with this.  Setting it correctly also makes it smudge proof and transfer resistant.  If all you are concealing is your under eye area you never need to squeeze the tube what's in the lid is the perfect amount.  I recommend their concealer brush for this as it is inexpensive and fits perfectly into the lid.  This is not completely oil free; However, the grade of the oil that is use in this is so refined you should not experience congestive problems with this product even when used every day. If you are using this on the body to it is essential to follow the directions EXACTLY, and if you are wearing a light color near or over this product allow additional drying time and I would still cover the fabric with tissues and paper towels.  I do this with tattoo covers and theater make up too.
     If you choose to go with old world tattoo and birth mark covers please consider Cover Blend by Exuviance over the other similar brands.  Exuviance comes from a pharmaceutical background and formulates their more skin healthy than others.  They have great colors and the coverage is unbeatable; However, these products are not easy to work with and do not feel comfortable on the skin.  Get their specific setting mediums and follow their instructions if you are covering a tattoo to set them and keep them from transferring.  I also recommend using them before foundations on the face as they may not necessarily be formulated for photographic purposes.  Please, do no expect to look 'natural' up-close when using any of these products.
    I have not worked with Kat Von D's products but I know some make up artists that rave about her tatoo cover.  Then, I read reviews that aren't as stellar.  You may want to give it a look as well if nothing else has met your  specific needs.
   Also, you may give theater make-ups a look.  I prefer Ben Nye simply because I have worked with it.  I'm certain there are other great products but I know that Ben Nye works.  You'll almost certainly have to buy this product online and you'll still want to prep, prime, apply and set. Do not worry about matching your color so closely.  You will become whatever color you apply.  You will have to request a catalog.  You can purchase these products directly from online retailers too.

And there you have it!  All of your dirty little secrets should be well covered and the cat is securely in the Chanel bag and Paris Hilton will not be letting the kitty out.    No matter how little or how much you have to hide you should be able to find an option that will thrill you and look great in your photographs (you're wedding legacy).

I would love to hear what you think.  Please, participate in the conversation.

Next up, how to get your foundations to look beautiful and last all day.

Chet Michael
Professional Make-Up Artistry in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and Charleston, West Virginia
412 531-2083

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